Cambodia

I Scammed a Scammer in Phnom Penh

  It was one of those moments when your body detaches from your mind. When you suddenly transform from a rational human into an instinctual animal, descending into your most extreme version of survival mode.   Surrounded by strangers, at night, alone, in a sketchy...

Long Live Phnom Penh

  Phnom Penh once slept in darkness.     The streets lay vacant abandoned, looted, demolished     art and culture and expression abolished.     City dwellers perished in work camps in the country overworked, traumatized, and hungry.     But when I arrived in Phnom...

Heaven Must Look Like Otres

  If you want to catch a glimpse of heaven watch the sunrise on the beach in Otres.     Fluffy clouds absorb a delicate pink glow as the sun escapes the horizon.     The ocean sits as still as a monk in meditation.     Boats reflect on its blue pane of glass.    ...

What Crabs in Cambodia Taught Me About Generosity

  I remember a time when I thought nothing of treating a friend to a $150 dinner. I hosted holidays and parties that cost more than I spend in an entire week traveling in Southeast Asia. I shared what I had, thought little about the cost, and picked up the bill often....

We Get Stuck in Kampot

  She came for three days ten years ago.     He planned to stay a week. Now he runs a business. He never went home.     I set my bag down for one night. Then lost track of time.     People get stuck in Kampot all the time.     The sleepy river seduces     stay one...

How Cambodia Broke My Heart

  “Be careful because Cambodia is the most dangerous country you will ever visit. You will fall in love with it and eventually it will break your heart.” – Joseph Mussomeli, former US Ambassador to Cambodia     My relationship with Cambodia bears a striking...

Battambang is Keepin it Real

  Shadows spill across shop house lined alleys slicing the golden light in sharp perpendicular lines.     I walk out into the city with few expectations most tourists warned me there's not much to like.     In the morning heat as sweat beads on my brow and pools...

The Gods in Angkor Wat

  Light hits the golden peak of Mount Meru.     The center of the universe.     The home of the gods.     The earthly embodiment of the sacred.     The peak towers into the heavens it roots plunge deeply into the earth.     Mountains span to the furthest regions...

The City That Serves Angkor Wat

  Siem Reap never sleeps.     Foreigners fly down dark streets in the back of tuk tuks to catch the sunrise over Angkor Wat     or stumble home as light skims the rooftops after pulling in the bar Angkor What?!     Locals line tables with floral plastic sheeting...

I Spent the Night in Angkor Wat

  I awoke to the sounds of monks chanting. Their melodic chimes echoed against the walls of the ruined temple surrounding the grassy field where I slept. Candles we lit the night before still burned and the sky skirted in a space between darkness and light. I looked...

A Second Chance in Cambodia

  I’m laying on the grass in front of the river while the sun sets behind the old market in Siem Reap. The sky bleeds from opaque coral into soft lilac, subtly entrancing me with its beauty. Motorbike exhaust perfumes the air and tuk tuk drivers incessantly solicit...

What I Learned From Staying in a Meditation Center in Cambodia

  “Gong! Gong!”   The melodic vibration at dawn reminded me of the freedom I had relinquished.   I slid along my sheets with the enthusiasm of a beached whale dreading the day’s impending events.     I arrived on the rooftop as the sun crept impressively over the rice...

Keep Koh Rong Right

  Koh Rong is a place     That does not want to be reached.     Boats coast waves from the mainland that would thrill seasoned surfers     passengers are less enthused and bolt for the toilets.     If the weather is poor or the sea is too rough     you may be stuck in...

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Cambodia

I Scammed a Scammer in Phnom Penh

  It was one of those moments when your body detaches from your mind. When you suddenly transform from a rational human into an instinctual animal, descending into your most extreme version of survival mode.   Surrounded by strangers, at night, alone, in a sketchy...

Long Live Phnom Penh

  Phnom Penh once slept in darkness.     The streets lay vacant abandoned, looted, demolished     art and culture and expression abolished.     City dwellers perished in work camps in the country overworked, traumatized, and hungry.     But when I arrived in Phnom...

Heaven Must Look Like Otres

  If you want to catch a glimpse of heaven watch the sunrise on the beach in Otres.     Fluffy clouds absorb a delicate pink glow as the sun escapes the horizon.     The ocean sits as still as a monk in meditation.     Boats reflect on its blue pane of glass.    ...

What Crabs in Cambodia Taught Me About Generosity

  I remember a time when I thought nothing of treating a friend to a $150 dinner. I hosted holidays and parties that cost more than I spend in an entire week traveling in Southeast Asia. I shared what I had, thought little about the cost, and picked up the bill often....

We Get Stuck in Kampot

  She came for three days ten years ago.     He planned to stay a week. Now he runs a business. He never went home.     I set my bag down for one night. Then lost track of time.     People get stuck in Kampot all the time.     The sleepy river seduces     stay one...

How Cambodia Broke My Heart

  “Be careful because Cambodia is the most dangerous country you will ever visit. You will fall in love with it and eventually it will break your heart.” – Joseph Mussomeli, former US Ambassador to Cambodia     My relationship with Cambodia bears a striking...

Battambang is Keepin it Real

  Shadows spill across shop house lined alleys slicing the golden light in sharp perpendicular lines.     I walk out into the city with few expectations most tourists warned me there's not much to like.     In the morning heat as sweat beads on my brow and pools...

The Gods in Angkor Wat

  Light hits the golden peak of Mount Meru.     The center of the universe.     The home of the gods.     The earthly embodiment of the sacred.     The peak towers into the heavens it roots plunge deeply into the earth.     Mountains span to the furthest regions...

The City That Serves Angkor Wat

  Siem Reap never sleeps.     Foreigners fly down dark streets in the back of tuk tuks to catch the sunrise over Angkor Wat     or stumble home as light skims the rooftops after pulling in the bar Angkor What?!     Locals line tables with floral plastic sheeting...

I Spent the Night in Angkor Wat

  I awoke to the sounds of monks chanting. Their melodic chimes echoed against the walls of the ruined temple surrounding the grassy field where I slept. Candles we lit the night before still burned and the sky skirted in a space between darkness and light. I looked...

A Second Chance in Cambodia

  I’m laying on the grass in front of the river while the sun sets behind the old market in Siem Reap. The sky bleeds from opaque coral into soft lilac, subtly entrancing me with its beauty. Motorbike exhaust perfumes the air and tuk tuk drivers incessantly solicit...

What I Learned From Staying in a Meditation Center in Cambodia

  “Gong! Gong!”   The melodic vibration at dawn reminded me of the freedom I had relinquished.   I slid along my sheets with the enthusiasm of a beached whale dreading the day’s impending events.     I arrived on the rooftop as the sun crept impressively over the rice...

Keep Koh Rong Right

  Koh Rong is a place     That does not want to be reached.     Boats coast waves from the mainland that would thrill seasoned surfers     passengers are less enthused and bolt for the toilets.     If the weather is poor or the sea is too rough     you may be stuck in...

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