The rickety panga skids across the ocean
and enters a tunnel of mangroves
islands appear on the pane of blue glass
each a unique treasure to behold.
Clapboard houses painted pastel hues
sit on stilts on docks over the turquoise bay
faded and weathered I wonder
if Bocas is a ghetto fabulous Nantucket.
On the main drag you’ll find
tour desks restaurants and dive shops
a traveler with some cash
can have whatever he wants.
American expats, drunken sailors
backpackers, drug dealers, and dancing queens
drink and dance until dawn
Bocas feeds party fiends.
But as the paved road snakes
along the coast outside of town
bars and restaurants thin
and make way for fields and cows.
Golden sand beaches emerge
with strong and powerful waves
or house colorful starfish
in calm glassy bays.
A tiny island that faces town
has got surf and lazy island vibes
no cars, no shoes, no worries
just sit and watch the tides.
Come sunset sand fleas feed
on all of the fresh white meat
slather up with coco oil
or expect to lose your feet.
Explore a little further and find the real Panama
dogs, chickens, children run wild
litter and poverty remind you
this is still the third world.
Caribbean soul lives on Isla Bastimentos
I guess Old Bank is Bocas without all the gringos.
Girl get braids, women manicures
they speak island lingo with English words.
Watch yourself when walking
on the Basti jungle paths
lest you be robbed in the wild
by men with machetes and masks.
Surfers get to play
at Wizard or Red Frog beach
keep following the coastline
for one of the most gorgeous beaches you’ll see.
A stunning boat journey
through the national marine park
arrive in deserted island paradise
with millions of stars after dark.
Some say that Bocas
is just for the party
I say that Bocas
is whatever you want it to be.
You can sleep in a hostel and party until dawn
or snooze on the beach with no one else around.
You can dine on sushi, Indian, fru fru steak
organic veggie salads, tacos, local plates.
You can surf world-class waves
kayak or dive in coral caves.
Honeymooners relax on deserted bays
surfers chase the epic waves
sailors seek a moment of rest
restauranteurs and hoteliers make their nest
backpackers find their sleazy fun
illegal expats make their visa run.
In Bocas you can really have it all
so why not choose something that nurtures your soul?
Why not let it be more than a vacationer’s vice?
Why not let it be true paradise?
How to Get to Bocas del Toro
From Puerto Viejo
Caribe Shuttle, $32, 3.5 hours
The Caribbean town of Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica is a short journey from Bocas. Caribe Shuttle arranges transport twice daily, 8am and 12pm. Shuttle vans pick up passengers from their hotel in Puerto Viejo, take them to the border, seamlessly organize the border crossing (which is KEY if you don’t speak Spanish), provide shuttle service to Almirante, and put passengers on the boat to Bocas Town. Everything is included and well organized making it by far the easiest way to do the crossing.
From Panama City
Fly, $150, 45 min
Air Panama flights connect Panama City with Bocas Town in just 45 minutes several times per day. This is definitely the easiest, though most expensive option. The airport in Bocas Town is a short walk to the boat docks and most hotels.
Bus +Boat, $35, 11-14 hours
Overnight buses ($30) leave Panama City daily and arrive in Almirante in the morning. From there you can catch a water taxi ($5) for about 30 minutes to Bocas Town. If you go with this option, bundle up for the bus ride. The night buses in Panama are notoriously cold. Last time I was on one I wore pants, a sweatshirt, and shared a sleeping bag with the girl sitting next to me. I was still cold.
When to Go to Bocas del Toro
I’ve been to Bocas del Toro three times over three years. One year I went in March, another in April, and most recently I went in October. It rained every single time, nearly every single day. Most sources report that the driest months are August through October and February through April, so every time I went fell into the “dry season” range. My advice? This is the Caribbean. You can never predict the weather. Go when you want to go and hope for the best.
The Islands of Bocas del Toro
With nine major islands, fifty cayes, and hundreds of deserted islets, Bocas del Toro is an island hopper’s dream. Some of the less populated islands have incredible resorts and if you have your own boat, it’s your playground, but most travelers will end up on one of these islands:
The most populated island in Bocas, most travelers begin their time in Bocas here. Bocas Town, on the Southside of the island, has the only airport and several marine docks that connect with the mainland as well as other islands. Most restaurants, hotels, hostels, tour companies, and dive shops base themselves in Bocas Town. This is the place to base yourself if you intend to party a lot. Outside of town some restaurants, hostels and hotels scatter along the coast all the way up to Bluff Beach which has a beautiful golden sand jungle backed beach with intense waves. Bluff Beach has a few nice resorts with restaurants. On the other side of the island is one of the most popular beach destinations in Bocas, Starfish Beach, with crystal clear water inhabited by colorful starfish. Staying outside of town on Isla Colon is great, with a car, otherwise you’ll likely feel too far removed from town and other islands, and land taxis are expensive.
Even with its swamps and sand fleas, Carenero holds a special place in my heart. It’s close to town, $1 water taxis run all night and take about 5 minutes, yet it feels like a desolate island. There’s clearly a surfer vibe here, it has the most famous break in Bocas, which may be one reason why I love it so much. Carenero doesn’t really have beaches for lazing and swimming, but I love wandering the trail that wraps around the small island, climbing up to the viewpoints, and exploring the local village. If you can handle the sand fleas, I highly recommend staying here to get away from town while still having the convenience of town nearby.
With some of the most beautiful beaches in Bocas, a colorful Caribbean village, and virgin rainforest, Bastimentos is my favorite island in Bocas. Old Bank has incredible charm with West Indian culture and brightly painted homes built on docks over the glassy ocean. Bastimentos has two beaches popular with surfers, Wizard Beach and Red Frog Beach. Beach lovers on a budget can stay at one of the hostels at Red Frog Beach and walk to Polo Beach, one of the most gorgeous in all of Panama, for snorkeling and beach bumming. The only downside to staying on Bastimentos is that water taxis run infrequently to town at night and there are far less dining options. I’ve heard about muggings on the walk between Wizard Beach and Red Frog even in the daytime, and some people advised against having valuables walking around Old Bank, however generally I felt safe there. Bastimentos also has remote beaches in the marine park accessible only by boat. If you have the chance I highly recommend staying at Punta Vieja and visiting Caye Zapatillas across the bay.
Where to Stay in Bocas del Toro
Bocas has a wide range of accommodations from cheap backpacker dorms to luxury all inclusive resorts on remote islands. Here are my top recommendations for where to stay whether you’re looking to socialize on a budget or get away from it all and experience luxury.
Gran Kahuna *TOP BUDGET PICK*
$12 for dorm, $45 for private
When young people on a budget ask me where to stay in Bocas, I always send them here. Granted, you will be attacked by sand fleas come sunset, but the vibe is so good, go anyway. Plush sofas and hammocks big enough for two offer ample lounge space during rainstorms and there’s always cool travelers hanging around. The rooms have hot water showers and air conditioning and the communal kitchen makes it ultra affordable. I love the style of Gran Kahuna, the people who work there, the people who stay there, and the quiet laid back location on Carenero. Even if you choose not to stay here, stop by for breakfast or cocktails in the bar right in the sand.
Palmar Tent Lodge
Red Frog Beach, Isla Bastimentos
$15 for dorm, $50 to 60 for private tent
One of the challenges in Bocas for budget travelers is that there’s really nowhere affordable to stay on the beach. Except for Palmar Tent Lodge. Located on Red Frog Beach, one of the most popular spots for surfers and beach bums on Isla Bastimentos, Palmar Tent Lodge is the best option for those who want to fall asleep to the sounds of the waves and wake up and watch the sunrise on the beach, without shelling out for an all inclusive resort. The spacious dorm room and the private tents are impeccably clean and well decorated, offering something akin to camping but way more elegant. Travelers can socialize and fuel up at the restaurant and bar with a solid menu of pastas, salads, fish, and even steak and practice yoga daily on a beautiful wooden platform in the jungle. The lodge runs on solar power and uses collected rainwater, sustainability woo hoo!, but be aware that there’s no wifi and the water pressure is basically nonexistent.
Old Bank, Isla Bastimentos
$15 for shared room, $35 for privates
While I didn’t personally stay here, I met some very nice locals who live and work there and made sure to swing by when I was in Old Bank. It’s an adorable brightly colored house built on a dock right next to the main pier in Old Bank. A $3 water taxi will take you town and I imagine it must be an awesome way to stay outside of town and feel connected with the local community.
$16 for dorm, $40 to 65/night for privates
This place is less of a hostel, and more of an affordable eco resort. The property is absolutely stunning, surrounded by pure jungle, gorgeous gardens, and a private dock in a hidden cove, and there’s even a hiking trail to take you across the island. The rooms and common areas are extremely clean and beautiful and they have a swimming pool that overlooks the ocean. Though, honestly I never used it as I preferred to go down to the dock at sunrise and snorkel out to the reef just in front. It’s quiet and chill but also social if you want to meet people, especially at the family dinners every night. The only downside to staying here is that it’s a $5 water taxi each way, every time you want to go into town, and there’s no shared kitchen so if you’re on a budget the costs can add up.
$70 to $90 for suites that sleep up to 3
Years ago, on my first trip to Bocas, I stumbled upon Casa Acuario while wandering around Isla Carenero. It immediately charmed me. I imagined how romantic it would feel to sleep over the water at night and wake up to the sunrise from the dock. So when I planned my recent return to Bocas, I knew I wanted to stay at Casa Acuario. In the morning I watched the sky light up from the hammock strewn on my porch, jumped from my room into the clear turquoise water, and waited right on the dock for a boat to pick me up to take me to town for dinner. Probably what I loved most about Casa Acuario was how staying there reminded me of staying in someone’s home. I felt like I was sleeping the spare room in a beautiful home of a close friend, and the Panamanian family who ran the place were so sweet. There were some problems with the wifi, and those who do not speak Spanish may struggle to communicate with the staff, but the charm of this place is undeniable.
$80 for a studio, $150 to $300 for suites
If you’re looking for comfort and convenience in town, you really can’t top Palma Royale. Despite directly facing the most popular bar in Bocas, La Iguana, my room at Palma Royale managed to be blissfully quiet. I loved being able to walk across the street for dinner and dancing and then come home to my cozy fluffy white bed for a good night’s sleep. The suites feel like deluxe apartments with a wrap around deck with great views of the bay and the sunrise, a spacious living room, and even a full kitchen. One afternoon I bought some snacks at the gourmet grocer next door and had my own happy hour during sunset while people watching from my balcony.
Old Bank, Isla Bastimentos
$85 to $150 for private rooms and bungalows
These beautiful wooden bungalows sit up on the hill overlooking the deserted coastline on the backside of Old Bank in Isla Bastimentos. The style and decor is just gorgeous and having the highly recommended Firefly restaurant onsite is certainly a perk.
Al Natural Resort *TOP PICK*
Punta Vieja, Isla Bastimentos
All inclusive packages starting at $100 per person per night
We rode across the open sea until we approached tiny mangrove islands and finally emerged at the entrance to a golden sand beach. As we reached the dock we heard him shout, “welcome to paradise!” and paradise it was. The sun came out, I kayaked beside pelicans and drifted ashore to lay on the beach until the storm rolled in. We dined by candelight on Indian spiced mahi mahi caught fresh that day and sipped crisp white wine at a family dinner table with travelers from all over the world. I tucked myself into bed inside of my wooden treehouse without walls overlooking the ocean. In the middle of the night I awoke and walked down the dock under the brightest full moon I’ve ever seen. Dipping my feet in the water I watched phosphorescence sparkling in the distance. I’m not sure if life gets any better than this. Just go. Go now. And please, take me there with you.
(Al Natural Resort is a 45 minute boat journey from Bocas Town, but your stay includes free transportation. Consider staying first at their cute waterfront apartments in Bocas Town, M&M Residencias, and then have their boat pick you up the next morning and take you to the resort.)
Bluff Beach, Isla Colon
$150 to $240 per night for rooms and suites
Island Plantation sits on a beautiful surf beach surrounded by jungle. I hear the rooms are beautifully done and the service is impeccable. They operate sustainably, using solar panels and a rain catching system. I did stop by the beach bar that sits in front, right on the beach, and loved the ambience. Apparently the food in the hotel restaurant is delicious and on the weekends they even do an Argentinean BBQ.
La Loma Jungle Lodge
Bahia Honda, Isla Bastimentos
All inclusive packages starting at $100 to $125 per person per night
The two spots all of the expats in Bocas del Toro told me I needed to stay at were Al Natural Resort and La Loma Jungle Lodge. Unfortunately I didn’t have a chance to get over to La Loma, but the place sounds just incredible. Eco cabins sit on the highest point on Isla Bastimentos for stunning views of the bay and are surrounded by lush jungle and cacao forest. They use solar panels, have built from locally sourced materials, and the cuisine comes from their own organic gardens. Best of all they have a chocolate farm which means amazing local chocolate is available onsite and the wildlife is abundant. I hope to check it out next time!
Where to Eat in Bocas del Toro
Latin and Caribbean influences lend spice to the local food and expats from all over the world have opened restaurants here. The variety of cuisine available on these Caribbean islands is nothing short of spectacular. You can find authentic Italian, Israeli, Indian, Fusion, and more. This list is made up of what I consider to be the most delicious restaurants in Bocas del Toro.
Bibi’s on the Beach
$6 to $15 for apps and entrees
If I could only eat in one restaurant in Bocas, it would be here. In fact I even told Carly, my dining companion, that if I could eat one meal for the rest of my life it would be the one I had at Bibi’s. The older I get and the more I travel, the more I appreciate simplicity. For me Bibi’s offers simplicity in its most perfect form. On a quiet dock on Carenero, surfers fill up the dining room at happy hour to watch the sunset and enjoy cocktails for $2. The ambience manages to be simultaneously romantic and social, a place you could go for a date night or head to solo to mingle. I highly recommend coming before the sunset and enjoying a mojito with no sugar (my new favorite drink) and the tropical passionfruit ceviche with plantain chips. The grilled octopus appetizer, the fish in coconut sauce, and the passionfruit sesame shrimp, are all incredible.
$8 for sushi roll, $12 for entree
Growing up in Seattle and traveling in Southeast Asia I’m typically disappointed when I eat Asian food in Central America. Raw Fusion? Another story. In fact it’s probably the restaurant in Bocas that I most crave. The food is light, fresh, healthy, and so, so, so yummy. We shared some warm sake, a welcome reprieve from the sugary cocktails that abound in the tropics, and had probably the best ceviche I had in Bocas… and I had a lot of ceviche in Bocas… mahi mahi marinated in a coconut lime sauce and tossed with pickled onions, black sesame seeds, and fluffy microgreens. Don’t miss the tropical salad with dried papaya and the spicy tuna roll with the sweet addition of ripe plantain.
$6 to $12 for appetizers and entrees
One of my fondest memories of Bocas took place in Om Café. More than a year ago I was traveling with my childhood best friend Marissa. We made a deal, if she helped me film a video for a travel contest I would take her with me to Bali when I won. Well, I didn’t win the contest, so instead of Bali I took her to Om. It was almost as good. We had been traveling on a very tight budget, cooking ourselves rice and beans in hostels, so going to Om felt like the ultimate treat. The warm candlelight, the intoxicating aromas, and the plush cushions swaddled us into deep conversation. Over crispy samosas, intensely flavorful curries, and possibly the best salad I’ve ever eaten made with tandoori chicken and homemade paneer cheese, we talked about romance and passion and dreams. I felt at home that night with my best friend at Om. To this day it’s still one of my favorite restaurants in Central America.
$6 for breakfast, $12 for dinner entrees
When I returned to Bocas this year I knew I had to try Maracuya, created by the same woman as Om. The brightly painted wooden space sitting on a dock called to me and I knew the woman who made Om could never fail me. The ultra romantic dock donned with candles instantly wooed me and I loved the complexity of flavors in every dish. Go for a romantic date night with your best friend, order the drunken fish, and do not leave without at least a bite of the perfectly tart not too sweet passionfruit cheesecake. They also serve brunch which looks fabulous, check out the Indian style French toast served with tamarind coriander chutney and please tell me how it is!
El Ultimo Refugio *TOP PICK*
$10 to $17 for starters and entrees
This is likely the most famous restaurant in Bocas, if not in all of Panama, and it certainly lives up to its reputation. Not only does El Ultimo Refugio have the best food in Bocas, it could hold its own in any international city in the world. The setting is super romantic, built on a wooden dock and decorated with dozens of candles. We felt beyond spoiled, sipping on crisp unoaked Chardonnay (good wine is hard to come by in Central America) and nibbling on plate after plate of fresh, innovative, flavorful, cuisine. The owner is from DC and the chef comes from Seattle and in the past cooked in some of the trendiest restaurants, which certainly comes across in the food. Everything I tasted was incredible, but the biggest standouts for me were the beet carpaccio with creamy blue cheese, dried figs, and spicy arugula, the perfectly spiced tuna tartar, and my absolute favorite the grilled octopus with chorizo, sun dried tomatoes, eggplant puree, crispy fried carrots, and pepitas. This was the best meal I’ve had in as long as I can remember.
Old Bank, Isla Bastimentos
$6.5 to $17 for tapas, $22 tasting menu
The day I came to Old Bank Firefly was unfortunately closed, but just seeing the setting and surroundings I can understand why it’s considered one of the best places to dine in Bocas. The extremely stylish restaurant sits on a wooden deck and overlooks a wild palm fringed coastline. Asian influences lend interest to the cuisine which I hear is just stellar.
$10 to $15 for entrees
Unfortunately I spoiled my appetite the night I went to La Casbah by eating a streetside arepa first, ya I know I caved, so really I need to go back to give it a proper review. This is a spot all of the expats recommended I check out, so after gorging on a cornmeal cake stuffed with onions and cheese from a food cart I made my way in. There were plenty of expats and travelers hanging out on the street in the front and I sipped on a glass of red wine and enjoyed some flavorful gazpacho. The entrees look incredible, if you make it in, let us know how they taste will ya?
$23 for a five course dinner
I’ve been hearing about Guari Guari for years, but somehow once again I didn’t make it in. Apparently it’s the best restaurant in Bocas both for the experience and the cuisine. Diners receive five artfully done courses with flavor influences from all over the world. I hear that the atmosphere is charming and intimate and the service impeccable.
$3.50 per taco, $10 for three tacos and a beer
This may be hard to believe, but the food I miss most when I’m in Central America is actually Mexican. So you can imagine my delight when I found this Baja California style taco bar in Bocas serving tacos, burritos, nachos, salads, and ummmm green smoothies?!?! Yes! A super cool couple from So Cal owns Taco Surf and they’ve created a lively, fun spot that’s perfect post surf or dive. I have my fingers crossed that they will open another location in Puerto Viejo. The nachos are killer, but probably my favorite thing I tasted was the fish taco which comes on a corn tortilla with fresh pico de gallo, crispy slaw, and guacamole. Um, yum. Don’t forget to try one of their homemade hot sauces.
$6 to $8 for lunch
Go to Leaf Eaters. No, seriously, go to Leaf Eaters. That’s what I kept hearing around Bocas Town. This cute cafe has been open for less than a year and it’s already the spot all of the locals are talking about. So, one day finally I popped in for lunch. I perched right up next to the ocean and quite appropriately ordered a coconut water and the “hippie bowl” which came with brown rice, raw kale, shredded carrot and beets, sprouts, seeds, and a delicious tahini dressing. Yep, I could eat like this every day. **They’ve officially moved locations from Bocas Town to a super cozy spot in Isla Carenero on a dock overlooking the sea.
$5 for falafel and a drink
For a fast cheap lunch I love the falafel food cart on the main street in Bocas Town. The falafel patties are crisp and homemade and come topped with a fresh cucumber tomato salad and a flavorful tahini sauce. I ordered mine without the pita bread and it became a salad topped with falafel.
$1 to $10 for groceries and deli food
Super Gourmet is a rare treat in Central America. With clean, well organized aisles, air conditioning, organic produce, specialty delicacies, and a full service deli, it feels very first world. Every Friday they get a fresh supply of organic veggies including kale, spinach, chaya, and katuk.
$4 for a Caribbean plate
I never made it to Tom’s but every local and expat I spoke with sung its praises. You can find this local hole in the wall on the dock beside the Police Station. Apparently plates come with salad, plantains, rice and beans, your choice of protein, and lots of flavor.
Where to Drink in Bocas del Toro
What draws many tourists to Bocas is the party scene. There’s live music, free drinks, and DJ beats somewhere every night of the week. Here are the coolest bars for watching the sunset, listening to live music, having a romantic glass of wine, or throwing back tequila and dancing until the sun comes up.
Playa Bluff, Isla Colon
Up on Playa Bluff this darling beach bar sits right on the golden sand shore across from the crashing waves. Expats gather on the weekends for the reasonably priced cocktails and simple beach bar fare like salads and wraps. It’s a fun spot to hang out in the day with a glass of fresh coconut water or stay for sunset cocktails.
Paki Point *TOP PICK*
Playa Paunch, Isla Colon
The first time I came to Bocas I stayed in a little cabin near Paunch Beach at the start of the rainy season. We had no wifi in our house and little to do in the rain, so we hid out in the nearest bar, Paki Point. Over papaya smoothies and ceviche we watched rainstorms, played with local kids, and tried to blog with intermittent wifi. Paki Point has a special place in my heart. It’s beautifully done with an open wooden deck overlooking the beach, comfy sofas, big wooden tables, and beach loungers. Stop in on your way back from Bluff Beach to wait out a rainstorm or watch the sunset with a pina colada.
Bocas Town, Isla Colon
In a Colonial style building smack dab in Bocas Town, The Wine Bar has a warm, cozy, sultry ambience with dim lighting and cozy couches. Pop in for a pre dinner wine tasting or an after dinner cocktail. I hear the tapas are also excellent.
A short walk from Bibi’s on the Beach, Pickled Parrot draws the local and surf crowd with laid back reggae vibes and awesome live music. I came one night for a live band from Jamaica and met some cool expats, locals, and sailors.
Bocas Town, Isla Colon
Also known as Loco Dave’s, The Bookstore Bar is an institution in Bocas. Expect to see locals and expats here any night there’s live music. I had a blast there one night mingling with all of the restaurant owners I met over the past week and meeting plenty of new faces.
Infamous for its Wednesday and Saturday night parties, Aqua Lounge can be a bit of a shit show, but if you’re young single and ready to mingle look no further. Admittedly I’ve had some pretty wild Wednesday Ladies’ Nights at Aqua Lounge when every backpacker in Bocas comes for the free drinks. Wear your bikini if you plan to walk the slackline or jump from the trampoline into the bay.
La Iguana Bar
Bocas Town, Isla Colon
While it may be a bit of a meat market, the space is actually quite cool and must offer a great sunset view. Thursdays they have free drinks for ladies until midnight and most nights of the week you’ll find a mix of reggae and hip hop, tourists and locals.
What to Do in Bocas del Toro
There may always be a party in Bocas, but Bocas is so much more than the party. Bocas has incredible outdoor adventures, unique local culture, gorgeous beaches, and abundant wildlife and nature. Here are some of my top recommendations for what to do.
Dive with La Buga
Bocas Town, Isla Colon
It’s always a good time at La Buga. You sense it the moment you walk by. The café is full of people, the staff skateboard and BBQ on the street, Tony who runs the place couldn’t be cooler, and when you get on the dive boat you become part of the family. As part of a Discovery Dive we went to Hospital Point on Isla Solarte with some stunning coral reef and also to Pandora, the secret spot in the middle of the bay known for having the healthiest reef in Bocas, that few dive shops even know how to locate. I was a bit nervous going diving as I hadn’t been in over a year and on our first dive I had trouble equalizing. One of the instructors stayed with me the entire time, helped me equalize, and looked into my eyes to make sure I was ok. Genuinely I felt the love. If you have time, do a dive course here and you’ll leave with not only a certification, but with friends.
Play at Starfish Beach
Boca del Drago, Isla Colon
There’s a reason why Starfish Beach is easily the most popular daytrip in Bocas: it’s absolutely gorgeous. Keep in mind, it’s quite touristic, but just a 30 minute shuttle ride from town and you can swim in calm turquoise water with colorful starfish. You can easily arrange a tour by catching one of the shuttles in the morning near the park in town for around $10 round trip. When you arrive, they’ll try to convince you to take another smaller boat to the main beach. I highly recommend walking down the beach instead, as in my opinion the deserted beach en route to Starfish Beach is actually the most beautiful part. Make sure to pack some snacks.
Cycle to Bluff Beach
Bluff Beach, Isla Colon
My favorite way to see Isla Colon is by bicycle ($7 for full day rental, $5 for half day). Weaving up the coast out to Playa Bluff you hug beautiful golden sand beaches, quaint Caribbean houses, and incredible greenery. It’s about an hour bicycle ride to Bluff, which is a golden sand beach that stretches for miles with intense crashing waves. Bluff has a few resorts and beach bars and strong currents for surfing.
SUP on Carenero
The calm bay that touches parts of Carenero makes it a great spot for taking out a Stand Up Paddle Board. Gran Kahuna and Surf Escuela rent boards, which you can paddle all the way to Isla Solarte for some awesome snorkeling.
Zipline at Bastimentos Sky Canopy Tour
Red Frog Beach, Isla Bastimentos
I almost chickened out of doing this canopy tour. In the past I did the famous zipline in Monteverde in Costa Rica, which while amazing scared the crap out of me. I’m doing this for the blog, I told myself as I strapped on my helmet, belts, and metal hooks. Though by the time I reached the first platform I felt at ease. The guides were playful and teased me just enough to make me feel comfortable. Their energy and enthusiasm made it the most fun thing I did my entire time in Bocas. We did several ziplines, one rappel, a rope swing, and walked across some swinging bridges. It’s a special experience to be able to be in the virgin jungle in Bastimentos and to experience it through the Afro Caribbean locals who guide the tour.
Sail to Cayo Zapatilla
Imagine bright white sand, calm clear water, and no inhabitants but palm trees. All over town operators offer daytrips to Caye Zapatillas on speed boats with snorkeling stops along the way. The most classic tour involves a visit to Dolphin Bay to watch the dolphins from your boat, snorkeling at Coral Caye, a brief ride through the mangroves of sloth island, and a couple of hours to chill on Cayo Zapatilla.
Get a Massage at Susurro Spa
Red Frog Beach, Isla Bastimentos
What I love most about this spa is how immersed in nature it is. The simple, thatched roof open space sites beside a river and you can relax to the soundtrack of birds chirping and cicadas humming. The spa offers a variety of treatments including Reiki, Shiatsu, and Deep Tissue massage. I enjoyed the Signature Massage, which felt both soothing and spiritual.
Snorkel at Polo Beach
To see the authentic Bocas less touched by tourism, head to Bastimentos. Most of the island is a protected national park with stunning virgin rainforest. Boats leave Bocas Town for $10 round trip to Red Frog Beach, a popular surf beach, which you can walk for miles to Turtle Beach and Polo Beach. At Polo Beach, one of the most beautiful in Bocas, it’s possible to snorkel when the water’s calm. Unfortunately a huge development project at Red Frog Beach has disrupted the jungle behind Turtle Beach, turning what was once beautiful nature into a suburban compound. Fortunately, for the time being, Polo Beach remains untouched.
Explore Old Bank
The heart of the Afro Caribbean community in Bocas del Toro lives in Old Bank on Isla Bastimentos. I loved exploring this part of Bocas, seeing families going about their daily lives, kids walking to school, men mowing lawns, and women doing their laundry. The homes are so bright and colorful, so taking photos is an absolute delight. A steep climb up the hill leads to a darling café, farm, and shop Up in the Hill with homemade treats and a beautiful line of toiletries made from local coconut oil.
Isla Bastimentos, Isla Carenero, Isla Colon
Bocas del Toro is a world-class surf destination, with so many beaches and so many different surf breaks. I’m not much of a surfer and I’ve never surfed in Bocas, but I hear the surf here can be pretty epic. Playa Bluff on Isla Colon is known for having strong currents and halfway to Bluff there’s a reef break at Playa Paunch. Red Frog Beach and Wizard Beach on Bastimentos are also quite popular among surfers. Though most surfers who come to Bocas decide to stay on Isla Carenero with some of the best breaks in Bocas just a short walk from affordable hostels. You can rent a board or take a lesson through Surf Escuela on Isla Carenero. For more info on surfing, check out this comprehensive guide to surfing in Bocas.
Befriend a Sailor
There’s no better way to see Bocas than from a sailboat. Consequently it attracts a large community of international sailors basing themselves in the islands for a while. I had the good fortune of befriending several sailors with boats while in Bocas and was able to sail to more remote places.
Find a Deserted Island
In Bocas, hundreds of islands gift their sand shores and shady palms. Accept the kind invitation and let yourself get lost in the middle of nowhere for a while.