A few days ago
en route from Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica to Granada, Nicaragua
I found myself
once again
screwed over by a taxi.
The details are irrelevant.
He lied.
I believed him. Why?!?!!!
I ended up in a less than desirable situation
stuck at the Nicaraguan border
in the dark
with no connecting bus.
And this happens to me
and many travelers
all of the time.
Paying ten times the going rate.
Told my hostel was shut down.
Brought to an abandoned bus station.
Driven in circles while the meter soared.
In an attempt to finally break this pattern
I’ve created some guidelines for all of you.
Do not speak their language
Literally. If you actually don’t speak any Spanish, congratulations this step will be very easy for you. If you do speak Spanish, no matter how limited, keep that card close to your chest. This is usually my downfall as meeting people, learning about local culture, and practicing the language are some of my favorite aspects of travel.
If you must communicate, offer as little information as possible
The more information you offer the more power they have in their ability to manipulate you. Particularly if you say anything with hesitation or uncertainty. Be confident and decisive. “Go to x location where I have a reservation at y time.” No additional information regarding your needs is necessary. Asserting that you might not like the hotel, that the place might be fully booked, etc. swings the door wide open for them to direct you towards their agenda.
Do not heed their advice, stick to your original plan
Unfortunately the advice of taxi drivers is usually self-serving. They do not want you to take the bus. They want you to take a taxi, especially if that means hours and hundreds of dollars. They want you to stay in a hotel that they suggest, for as long as possible, as it will be one that pays them for their referrals. You need to look out for yourself, no matter how nice and accommodating they may seem. Remember that it is your responsibility to have your own best interest in mind, not theirs.
If they ask if you have a ticket or a reservation always say YES
See above. They are looking for opportunities to tell you that the bus is sold out or not running. That your hotel is booked or in a dangerous neighborhood. Trust yourself and your research. Whether you have the ticket or reservation or not sticking to that plan will likely produce a better option.
Establish the rate before you enter the taxi
Better yet do your research on what the rate should be before you get in so that you have a clear frame of reference in your negotiations. Too many times I’ve been given an absurd rate at the end of the ride, but I pay anyway as insulting them with less doesn’t sit well with me. This could be avoided by simply determining the rate first.
If it’s your first time in the country be certain on the exchange rate
Ideally have your guidebook with the exchange rate in it. I made the terrible mistake of asking my taxi driver my first night in Granada what the exchange rate was… even though I was pretty sure I knew. He asserted that it was twenty times in his favor. When I argued, he pretended to call the tourism board then put me on the phone with someone who lied to me as well. When I continued to argue (apologetically) he held me hostage, saying that the road to my hostel was closed, until I confirmed his lies with strangers on the street and got out of the taxi. In the end I paid ten times the going taxi rate rather than two hundred times and walked to my hostel. Maybe I should have paid him nothing? Karma keeps me generous.
Some common lies to look out for:
“That hotel is full, let me take you to a better one.”
“The buses aren’t running, it’s better to take a taxi.”
“The buses are all full and sold out. They have nothing until next week. Come, let me take you to a nice hotel.”
“I can’t take you there, it’s much too dangerous. Let me take you here instead.”
The sad reality is that there are desperate people who see tourists as disoriented money trees ripe for manipulation. However, this is not always the case and I don’t want to discourage anyone from talking to people when traveling. In fact, it’s one of the best parts of traveling! Interacting!
However, be selective when you choose to be chatty. Why not reserve your candor for the times when you are not vulnerable? For instance in the day with friends when you have no cares, no agenda, and no luggage. The times I have been swindled are typically at night, alone, with all of my belongings. Particularly when I am fresh off of the bus looking for my hostel or in a hurry to get somewhere with no ticket nor reservation.
My general rule of thumb in every situation, particularly as a woman traveling alone, is to take a deep breath, be confident, and use your instincts.
Do you have any taxi nightmares or lessons learned to share?
Too many times I’ve had taxi drivers ask if I want to be their girlfriend/wife. It seems that if you are a gringa, they are under the impression you are here because you are looking for a boyfriend/husband in the form of a taxi driver.
Bekka you do have that happen a lot! It’s not your fault you’re a bonita rubia 😉
Way to empower others, and yourself, Sister! Love you and can’t wait to see you soon!
xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoooooo
GREAT post. Too many people act timid and out of sorts abroad, you really have to own it! My first time ever abroad I was overcharged in a taxi in Spain and got my passport stolen! Lesson learned.
Sheesh! Knock on wood I’ve never had something that bad, but yep I guess it happens all over the world!
Very similar in southeast Asia.
I’ve found that if you look like you’ve done it all before and don’t have the “easy mark” look, the scam taxi drivers just don’t stop for you (which saves you both time).
Information is power, ask a local what it should cost (not that you’ll be able to always get the local price)
Wil! I am literally planning my upcoming SEA trip now waiting for my flight in the San Jose, CR airport. I will be picking your brain and scouring your site soon 😉 Considering I speak no Asian languages I’ve already got my first tip DOWN! Haha.
Feel free to shoot me an email if you have any questions.
The more you speak the better but all your really need is “Hello” and “Thank you”.
I’m planning on bouncing around Malaysia and Indonesia til …November? and then probably Laos, Cambodia, and back to Thailand (again). Let me know if you’re around. =]
whether is CR or Bahamas or US, I try and do my research and find out how much it’s supposed to be from x–> y and then I ask before I step in the vehicle even with my husband there and even when I get “the look” from the driver which is usually followed by a sly smile. And never give them any information about how much money you may or may not have, I wear my silver take off some and stash it, hide most of my cash, accesorise and dress low key as to not draw attention leading to whatever they may think. Learned my lesson with a gypsy expat gringo (no offense but she was a gypsy not in the sense of free will but take advantage and make money) who charged me an unbelievable amount for some hand made gifts, I learned now to barter barter barter and walk away politely.
Thanks for your stories and words of wisdom! Knowledge is power so research is definitely key!
It’s sometimes a difficult task and lessons learned before the art of soliciting a taxi comes easily. My wife Anita and I own a vacation home in Granada, Nicaragua and rent it out when we’re not there. I have found that once I get a clean cab and an honest individual that really wants and needs my business I will ask him for his phone number and call him when we need him. He has helped me find the best bargain boat ride for the isleta tour. Our first trip it costs us more per person than the cost of the entire boat for a private excursion. This came in handy when my sister and mother were with us the last trip we were there. The photo of you standing in front of the Barber Shop is only one and a half cuadra from our home. Read your article in International Living and suspected while reading that it might have been written by you. Also learned your name. Enjoy reading about your travels and experiences, especially since I can relate to many of the same situations. Thanks and keep the stories and photos coming!!!
Yes I always have my trusted taxi drivers in Puerto Viejo as well. It’s really the only way. Love your neighborhood in Granada, though that’s not a photo of me rather of a stranger 😉 Thanks so much for following along Mike!
Hey Girl ! I found your blog on Pinterest and have become obsessed. Puerto Viejo and Granada were two of my favorite vacation spots between studying when I studied abroad and you are right Granada can have some sketchy characters. I was wondering who your taxis were in PV, I will be there early next year and my boyfriend has a bad back so bikes aren’t an option for us, those taxis might come in handy ! Ps can’t wait to try your Caribbean recommendations! It has been maddening that the only good Caribbean I’ve found so far was in Heredia and San Jose.
Thanks so much!! The taxi I used most frequently was Victor, just say his name at any restaurant or hotel and they will know him. I also used Davide. But really, there is a taxi central line and any of the taxis from them are fine. Good luck and enjoy paradise! It’s really my fave place on earth 🙂
MOROCCO. MOROCCO. Morocco. God, I’ve never been ripped off so much anywhere in the world but that God forsaken country. In fez the hostel’s website even said not to pay more than 25 dirham to get from the bus station, yet every taxi told me 50. And nothing less. I have a million other rip off stories from Morocc, but I wont even continue because it makes me so angry.
Haha, oh ya I have some stories on the blog about getting ripped off in Morocco. From what I saw it’s definitely worse for men there…