Last year, my darling Andie and I reluctantly left our little jungle house in Puerto Viejo, ordered one last batido at our favorite café, said farewell to our fast but furious friends, and crossed the border into Panama.
We carried suitcases and sea legs into the town built on docks, and with wide eyes and heavy hearts we came to the place we planned to call home.
Except home did not expect our arrival that day. Deck chairs and dishes piled high on our unmade beds.
The beach in front of our house wore tire tracks. There was no other road.
Civilization was miles away and the internet never cooperated.
We hiked uphill to golden sands and crashing waves and lay on the rainy beach until the tide took Andie’s camera into its furious waters.
The night we partied, taxis stopped running at midnight. Four Panamanian police officers shuttled us home. They made sure we had their numbers.
Rain hailed heavily. And did not stop. For days and days.
We hid in a hotel lobby one afternoon while it poured and began to scheme how we might return to our Costa Rican home, instead of staying our intended three weeks.
The next day we did.
And I always wondered, what might have happened, had we stayed.
I was determined to know Bocas in the sunshine.
When I returned last week, more than one year later, with my travel mate and childhood friend Marissa, I strapped on my heavy pack and walked through town with an open heart instead of a broken one.
I found light in the Crayola colored Caribbean homes.
Interest in the different faces around me.
Excitement staring at the distant islands, each promising a new adventure.
Again, in the rain.
We rode a boat to Isla Carenero under the protection of a blue tarp, and checked into a beachfront hostel that already felt like home.
I ran down a dock and jumped into the waist high murky water. Even in the rain I was enchanted.
We climbed a cliff and watched surfers flow fearlessly between colossal waves and dolphins dance in the distance. My heart felt so full.
And still, it rained.
We dressed in ponchos and rode to Isla Bastimentos, a muddy wilderness island, wind and salt blowing through our hair.
Clouds overtook the sky but rain ceased long enough for us to stop and sit on the white sand, and occasionally stand with trepidation in the crashing sea.
Still, I wondered, does the sun ever shine in Bocas?
At night deep bass pulsed through the island and we stumbled over crabs on the sandy path to Aqua Lounge for Ladies Night, where one year before I made friends with women from all over the world over pink cocktails and too many tequila shots.
This time, sober, I danced in bubbles and fog under the multicolored disco ball and wandered back to our dock to stare at the starry sky.
Each dot of vibrant light promised that maybe, possibly, hopefully, tomorrow I would see the sun.
And the next morning, I did.
We climbed over sun-bleached docks and fallen palm trees on deserted beaches
to golden sand and calm clear water
covered with the friendliest starfish I have ever known.
We rode our bicycles up hilly potholed country roads
past the cabin where Andie and I stayed those five rainy days
across the road that she and I called our beach
to Playa Bluff, where we sat in the rain one year ago.
The sand was as soft and gold as I remember. The waves as menacing.
And when the rain came to greet us again, we pedaled to Paunch Beach, taking cover at Paki Point, where Andie and I spent wet afternoons desperately seeking internet.
Laying on a lounger, sipping my pina colada, watching the rain fall over the crashing sea, it almost felt like she was there with me
loving every moment in rainy Bocas del Toro, Panama.
Stay
Isla Carenero, $12 a night for a dorm bed, $45 for a private room with a double bed and bunk bed
We discovered this little gem our first day on Carenero. It sits directly in front of the beach with its own private dock. Rooms have air conditioning and hot water showers, but the real joy is laying in a hammock or on one of the many plush sofas while staring at the ocean. Montserrat, the Barcelona born owner could not be more adorable. Bocas town with restaurants and shopping is a $1, 5 minute water taxi ride away.
Bocas Town, Isla Colon, $12 for a dorm bed, $30 for a private
The best inexpensive option right in Bocas town. Casa verde is built on a dock and offers quaint rooms overlooking the water.
Bluff Beach, Isla Colon, $150-500 for private cabins
For solitude and relaxation head outside of town to the Bluff Beach Retreat, a 45 minute bike ride from town. The Lodge sits on grand, deserted bluff beach offers a private swimming pool, gardens, and a full complimentary breakfast. Each night Ron will make you one of his signature rum and pineapple cocktails.
Eat
$15-20, Bocas Town
Dine on Caribbean fusion at its finest at this restaurant overlooking the water.
$5-10, Bocas Town
Stock up on specialty grocery items like imported olives, thai curry paste, and asparagus or visit the deli for cold cuts made on homemade bread, quinoa salad, and cookies baked fresh with local cacao nibs. Yummmm.
$10-18, Bocas Town
Satisfy your craving for spice at this incredible Indian restaurant serving curries, samosas, salads piled with grilled chicken and paneer, and full Indian thalis for sharing. The restaurant sits above a cute little bar called The Bookstore which had live music the night we went. It makes for excellent people watching.
Authentic Panamanian Cafeteria
$1-5, Bocas Town
I wish wish wish I could remember the name of this place, but I do remember that it is next door to Hostel Heike on the main road across from the park. The food is incredibly cheap and incredibly authentic. Stewed lentil, grilled meat, fried chicken, and empanadas are sold cafeteria style and priced by the weight. Last year I came to this hole in the wall and ate a big plate for $2. It’s not the healthiest option but it’s a great way to try lots of Panamanian food for cheap.
$10-$15, Isla Carenero
Bibi’s is the best place to eat and drink on Carenero. The restaurant sits on a dock over the calm turquoise sea and offers delicious tropical beverages, Caribbean style cuisine, and delicious ceviche. Come at happy hour for cheap cocktails.
$5-10, Playa Paunch
Paki Point is my favorite place to have a drink in all of Bocas del Toro. The view is unbeatable, the design is positively inspired, and the smoothies and blended cocktails are to die for. The food is simple beachfront fare with burgers, wraps, and ceviche. They also rent surfboards for those brave enough to face Paunch.
Do
Surf at Playa Bluff, Playa Paunch, Isla Carenero, Wizard Beach, or Red Frog Beach
Swim with Starfish at Bocas del Drago
Wander down docks on Isla Carenero
Ride bikes to Bluff Beach
Kayak from Isla Carenero to Isla Solarte
Hike Isla Bastimentos
Take a tour of Dolphin Bay, Cayos Zapatillos, and Swan’s Caye
Get playful on the swings and trampolines at Aqua Lounge
Arrive
Fly from Panama City
$100, one hour, Air Panama and Aeroperlas
or San Jose
$88-200, one hour, Nature Air
directly to Bocas Town, Isla Colon
Shuttle from Puerto Viejo to Almirante
$20, 2.5 hours
or
bus from Panama City to Almirante
$23, 9 hours
then take the boat from Almirante to Bocas Town, Isla Colon
$5, 30 minutes
My heart was so full reading this 🙂 I’m so glad you went back to experience it all over again in a new light.
I love you love you love you,
Andie
We must go back and do it Isla Mujeres style 🙂 Oh and I love you too.
My time in Bocas was just as rainy as yours! I arrived on Bocas Day, which is just a freaking incredible cacophony of trumpets, drums, and endless parading down the main street – the parade is an all day and into the night affair. I’ve never seen anything like it. I walked off the boat right into the middle of it all and was immediately smitten. I experienced my first earthquake while in Bocas, shaken and tossed out of my sleep in the middle of the night. My first hostel was ant-ridden, my second was charming and “home”. But the rain. For the love of all things holy. It was some of the worst flooding Panama had seen in decades. For days it was nothing but a deluge, to the point that I seriously began to question if the entire island was going to go down and me with it. Once the shore streets began to flood, I decided enough was enough and I hiked to the airport early one morning – desperate for the first flight out to Panama City. I will never forget the magical time I spent in Bocas (and the dreamy boy that came along with the experience)…here’s to hoping Bocas works its magic in your heart this time around too! 🙂
Wow! Crystal, your Bocas experience sounds incredible. When did you go? I heard that a few years ago the flooding was so bad that Changinola became an island and no one could cross the border?!
It’s like a different place in the sunshine! we loved it even more our second time around! we saw dolphins frolicking in the sea! 🙂
Totally! I want to go back, fortunately it’s right next door to Puerto Viejo 🙂 Did you do the tour to Dolphin’s Caye? We did not this time, but I definitely plan to go to Cayes Zapatillos and Dolphin’s Caye next time.
So gorgeous! I need more vacation time! …and to talk my bf into this style of travel! So fun!
Yes! Let me know if you do, I will give you even more tips 🙂
It was completely heart touch when i went through your blog..Its just too amazing to look at and read about it..I did visit the Dolphin Bay and had one of the best enjoyable moments …
Any advice for a couple traveling from Puerto Viejo to Bocas? We plan to spend 5-7 days in PV, the head to Bocas for the remaining 2-3 days before returning to SanJose to catch a flight back to the states.
What advice are you looking for specifically?
Sorry…to be more specific, if you only had 2-3 days in bocas, where would you spend it? Also, best place to stay for under $100/night in bocas for a couple…and thanks for the reply!
Top highlights for just a couple of days include a day of diving or snorkeling around Caye Zapatillo and a day at Starfish Beach. If you have time Bluff Beach is beautiful and stretches for miles or hike around Isla Bastimentos if it’s not too muddy or rainy. As far as where else to stay I’m sorry but I only know the places listed in this article. I’d recommend checking Trip Advisor 🙂
Hey! I’m planning on doing a language course here for 3-4 weeks. Do you recon that’s too much time there?
Also what is the nightlife like and where are most of the travellers from?
I’m travelling from the UK and excited but scared to take the leap and travel alone!
Are transport links to CR and Panama pretty easy to naviagte?
Thanks very much!
Hi Jess, I think you can easily spend a month in Bocas, there is a lot to see. The nightlife is geared toward young backpackers, pretty crazy with lots of “Ladies Nights”. Travelers are from all over, USA, Canada, UK, Europe, Australia. It’s a really easy place to travel on your own don’t worry! You will meet lots of people if you stay in a hostel 🙂 The transportation is easy to Costa Rica’s Caribbean from Bocas and you can book it through any hostel or tour agency.
Let me know if you need more help, I do offer travel consulting services:
https://www.thisamericangirl.com/work-with-me/
My partner and I are thinking about moving to Panama, so it’s great to see a little more of this country. Bummer about the rain… I’m not such a fan!
I think you just have to time your visit right. The San Blas islands are TOTALLY incredible and you can’t miss them if you go to Panama!
https://www.thisamericangirl.com/2013/05/21/see-san-blas-before-you-die/
What a phenomenal Bocas story!! I have never read a story of Bocas before that truly explains the lil gem. It seems like every time I experience Bocas its different. Rain or shine the place is so special. Its a place where the mind can be free and the heart can lead the way. No one judges and everyone fits in. After 30 countries Bocas is the place that I call home.
So glad you enjoyed it! Which is your favorite island over there? I need to spend more time exploring it 🙂
I’m planning a week in Bocas del Toro after my stay at Blue Osa and look whose blog I stumbled upon? Thanks for all the helpful info! If you feel like coming down, I’ll be there mid-October. 🙂
Awesome Jenee! I’m heading there October 5th because my visa is up then. Maybe see you there 😉
Love your photo journal…beautiful. But everything I read is making me re-think our plans. My husband and I would like to spend 2 months total in Central American and have narrowed it down to Panama planning on one month on the Pacific side and one on the Caribbean side in Jan-March 2017 but we don’t want to spend a month in the rain with only a handful of sunny days!
He also is an avid swimmer and needs a beach and water safe and calm enough for safe swimming daily, if possible. We wanted to rent an apartment in Bocas town so I can take Spanish at Habla Ya school but now we aren’t even certain there are good swimming beaches near Bocas Town…
Can anyone help? Not finding the info I need and am reading lots of mixed reviews in general about safety, cleanliness, sand fleas, etc…
Hey Anne Marie, thanks so much! Ok so Bocas Town is fun but it’s very much a party town, and there are no good swimming beaches there. You have to go several miles outside of town to find them. If you want to hang on the beach for a couple of months I would recommend Costa Rica 🙂
https://www.thisamericangirl.com/2013/06/05/the-ultimate-guide-to-puerto-viejo/
Wow, really? We definitely are not looking for a party town…we want beautiful water, warm temps (we are escaping the winter of Western NY state), sun, swim, chilling out by the water…
The problem with CR from my research (and we did spend 3 weeks there but that was 20 years ago and it was nice but we weren’t impressed with the beaches we saw…litter, partially burnt trash piles, someone tried to break into our bungalow, people throwing litter from bus windows) is the roads are supposedly much worse (they were bad when we were there…had we known we’d have rented a 4WD), there is more crime and we just aren’t sure we will find what we are looking for there, either. Do you know Jaco? We looked there as there is a Spanish immersion school there and some decent rentals but not on the beach (the nicer ones were not on the beach, I mean…we are looking for a 2 bedroom apt or condo with fully equipped kitchen).
Most important to my husband is
1. high speed reliable wifi bc he will be working remotely
and
2. swimmable, clear, clean, safe, warm water for daily swimming
I would like Spanish classes and some decent grocery stores and restaurants…don’t want loud partying scene or loud clubs nearby as we are light sleepers, but would like to do more than just sit on a beach…hiking, zip lining, exploring other beaches, shops, good restaurants…friendly people to practice my Spanish 🙂
I will take all suggestions!!!
I would not recommend Jaco at all, it’s overdeveloped, crowded, dirty, lots of litter. There are MANY beautiful beaches all over Costa Rica. I have more info in my ebook here: https://www.thisamericangirl.com/ultimate-guide-costa-rica/
Thank you. If we decide to go to CR, will definitely consider purchasing your book, I am certain it’s very informative!