Heaven Must Look Like Otres -
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Heaven Must Look Like Otres

otres beach sihanoukville

 

If you want to catch a glimpse of heaven

watch the sunrise on the beach in Otres.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Fluffy clouds absorb a delicate pink glow

as the sun escapes the horizon.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

The ocean sits as still as a monk in meditation.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Boats reflect on its blue pane of glass.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Thatched roofs shelter colorful strewn hammocks.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Loungers wait in lines for lazing.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Locals and tourists, children and adults, stand in the ocean nightly

watching the colors of the sun explode.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

But in Cambodia

a country full of extremes

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Otres Beach

is hardly what it seems.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Squeaky white sand and crystal clean water stretch for miles and miles

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

strewn with keg cups, shampoo bottles styrofoam containers, roofing tiles.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Plump pale tourists tan and drink cold beers

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

skinny brown children hawk the beach with overpriced souvenirs.

 

Otres - 13

 

Business is booming, like one big construction site

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

yet the whole area loses electricity every night.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Islands in the distance beckon observers to come explore

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

before their foreign owners develop casinos and resorts.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Delectable grilled squid and fresh tropical fruit pass by

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

balanced on the shoulders of women so slight in size.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

White palaces provide luxury, cocktails, and comforting treats

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

beside shanty villages; I wonder what the children there eat.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Runners and kayakers, healers and yogis

bring energy and life

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

expats and locals with alcoholism and meth addiction are rife.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Phosphorescence and stars glitter in the sea and the sky

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

but beware the darkness, not everyone is a nice guy.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Otres may be as imperfect

as any other place on earth

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

but who wants sterile anyway?

I prefer real, rough dirt.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

So I made a home in Otres

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

with locals who loved me like family

 

otres beach

 

and travelers who became lifelong friends

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

I allowed the ocean to cradle me

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

and the sand to support me when I needed it most.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

Sleeping in a treehouse and living in the sea

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

taking cold showers and walking barefoot on the beach

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

I felt peace and contentment.

 

otres beach sihanoukville

 

I guess Otres was heaven to me.

 

 

 

How to Get to Otres

 

Otres Beach is a short motorbike or tuk tuk ride from the popular tourist destination Sihanoukville on the coast with the Gulf of Thailand. You can typically negotiate a moto taxi for around $3 from Sihanoukville, more for a tuk tuk. Buses depart regularly from Kampot, Kep, Phnom Penh, Koh Kong, and Siem Reap for Sihanoukville. My favorite bus company in Cambodia is Giant Ibis. Overland travel from Thailand and Vietnam is available to Sihanoukville, but beware plenty of scams. From Thailand travelers typically start in Koh Chang and take the ferry/minibus to the Koh Kong border then minibus from the border to Sihanoukville. You’ll likely pay double the visa cost here but there’s practically no line at this chill border. There is also an airport in Sihanoukville that connects with Siem Reap and Phnom Penh operated by Cambodia Angkor Air.

 

Travelers planning to head to islands nearby can book directly from Otres and shuttles will take them to the appropriate piers. Boats leave for Koh Ta Kiev directly from Otres I and boats to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem leave from Sihanoukville (shuttles bring passengers to the boat pier.)

 

 

Otres I vs Otres II

 

A common debate among travelers is whether it’s better to stay in Otres I or Otres II. Coming in from Sihanoukville, you first reach Otres I which has plenty of guesthouses on and across from the beach with beachfront restaurants. It feels much more laid back than Sihanoukville, but is not nearly as quiet as Otres II, located a couple of miles down the beach. Personally, I prefer Otres II, no contest. Because it’s so much smaller Otres II has more of a community vibe, the beach is quieter, more laid back, and more beautiful, plus you have easier access to Otres III which a completely undeveloped beach further south. Otres II often gets labeled as the “Honeymooon Beach” which gives the impression that it’s expensive. While there certainly are upscale resorts, Otres II has a few inexpensive guest houses and even a hostel with dorm beds. The advantages of staying in Otres I are more options for food, activities, nightlife and accommodation.

 

 

Where to Stay in Otres

 

There are plenty of guesthouses on both Otres I and Otres II and unless you’re coming in peak season it’s easy to just show up and find a place. Options range from super basic bungalows and dorm beds to luxury rooms with air conditioning and hot water. Whenever possible I recommend supporting locally owned and run businesses.

 

Castaways

$10-25 for rustic beach hut

Otres II

Castaways is hands down the best place I have stayed in 2.5 years of travel. My room had mosquitos, after one day my bed was full of sand, and I often woke up in the morning to the sound of geese or one of the kids screaming, but I didn’t mind. It felt like staying with family, real people who welcomed me and cared about me. I actually felt like I was in Cambodia. I first discovered Castaways while walking down from Otres I. I stopped in because it had the most inviting atmosphere with colorful hammocks and thatched roof huts making me feel like I reached a deserted island. They were having a party and invited me to come and eat their seafood and drink their beer… for free. Over the weeks I spent at Castaways the young women became my sisters, holding my hand and telling me they loved me. The little boys were like my nephews, climbing on me in the ocean like monkeys and accompanying me on my morning run. The owner, Mr. Ox, looked out for me and was someone who I could trust. His older sister brought me treats to my room and told people I was her daughter. Castaways is essentially a homestay, a rare opportunity as beach towns tend to be whitewashed with tourists. If you want to meet a community of mature, interesting travelers, get to know welcoming, open hearted locals, and be on the most beautiful stretch of beach in Otres, stay here. No contest.

 

Footprints

$5 for dorm bed, $15-$25 for private

Otres II

Footprints is a mecca for young traveling beach bums. It has a great location at the end of Otres II with a big beach bar and lounge. The rooms are clean and the facilities are pretty incredible including a boxing gym, a lounge with daybeds and flat screen televisions, and while I was there they had daily yoga classes overlooking the beach. I met a lot of great people here, especially the long term work traders. Even if you don’t stay, be sure to come on Friday night for $5 BBQ, music, and socializing. Every night of the week that have a great selection of Western and local food, even hummus with raw veggies.

 

Wish You Were Here

$7 for dorm bed, $15-$25 for private 

Otres I

If you decide to stay on Otres I, Wish You Were Here has nice, cheap digs and a social atmosphere for meeting other travelers. It’s clean and well designed, though keep in mind the bathroom floors are nearly always flooded and they are not located directly on the beach. However, they do have a great hang out area and some of the best food in Otres, including healthy options like carrot beet ginger juice and raw salads. Sunday nights they host live music, DJs, and sometimes open mic.

 

Elephant Garden

$50-$200, big discounts in the low season

Otres II

This higher end hotel is elegant without being overdone and seems to blend in well with the other businesses. The design is beautiful and rooms range from basic to luxurious. The beach restaurant is gorgeous and cozy, with modern Khmer fusion food. The superbowl is lovely with all kinds of vegetables and a spicy broth and the Elephant Garden salad with fresh mango and whole green Kampot peppercorns is unusual and delicious.

 

Secret Garden

$60-$140 for private bungalows

Otres II

Just two doors over from Castaways, Secret Garden is on a beautiful quiet beach. Bungalows have hot water and air conditioning and guests can use the shared swimming pool and hang out in the beach club. Personally I find the place a bit commercial, but if you want a certain level of comfort it’s a good option. It seems to be quite popular with Western families and couples. The restaurant is good (mix of Western and Khmer food) with treats difficult to find in Otres like homemade brownies with ice cream and creme brulee.

 

 

Where to Eat in Otres

Otres is hardly a foodie mecca and restaurants tend to be mediocre and overpriced compared to cities like Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, but there are some decent places to find Western and Khmer food. All of the hotels and hostels listed above have good food, probably the best around, but here are a few more options.

 

Beach Food

$1-$2

Street food in Otres is scant but you can easily get food on the beach in Otres I. Women often make the rounds with freshly cut tropical fruit for $1, fresh spring rolls, amazingly good grilled squid with kampot pepper, and fried langoustine. Otres II has less of this but you will spot them especially in the high season.

 

Street Carts

$1-$2

Behind the beach on the street are food carts catering to construction workers and local staff. Here you can order some basic Khmer dishes like baguette sandwiches, rice soup, and fried noodles.

 

Pappa Pippo

$5-$10 for main dishes

Otres I

Arguably the best restaurant in Otres I, Pappa Pippo serves authentic homemade Italian food like gnocchi, pizza, and homemade pastries.

 

Strawberry Huts

$3-$7 for main dishes

Otres II

I came here nearly every day for one reason… their salad. Finding vegetables proved difficult in Otres but Strawberry Huts has a huge raw shredded cabbage, carrot, green papaya, bell pepper, cucumber, tomato salad with lots of fresh basil and a healthy lime olive oil dressing. I ordered it with a hard boiled egg every day for lunch. Otherwise I recommend getting the local food, not the Western food here. They have probably the largest vegetarian menu of anywhere on Otres II.

 

 

What to Do in Otres

Generally the best thing to do in Otres is nothing at all. My routine there was to run on the beach early in the morning, take a long swim, check out yoga at Footprints late morning, then spend the rest of the day reading in a hammock until the sunset.

 

Kayak

$5 per hour

You can rent kayaks on both Otres I and Otres II for an hour, a half day, and a full day. Castaways has nice new ones and is very close to a river with a local village you can explore. Some people even kayak to the nearby islands.

 

3 Islands Day Tour

$15 for a full day tour includes lunch

Everyone and their mother on both Otres I and Otres II offer boat trips to three islands which includes snorkeling and lunch. You can easily book a tour through any hostel or guesthouse or walk over to a tour guest. Agents often troll the beach looking for people to sign up for the next day. These tours are a great option for those who don’t have time to actually spend a few days staying on the islands (which include Koh Ta Kiev and Bamboo Island). I took my tour with Legend Boat Trips run by a seriously dynamic South African/Canadian duo. We stopped to snorkel, went cliff jumping, visited an organic absinthe distillery on Koh Ta Kiev and watched the sunset on the boat ride back. I’d recommend going with them if you’re looking to meet other young travelers and throw back some beers on the boat.

 

Walk to Otres III

South of Otres II is the wild, undeveloped Otres III. To reach it wade across the river, which is never high and at times nonexistent at low tide, and continue walking past the fishermen on the big rocks. If you’re adventurous this beach appears to last forever, one small bay flanked with rocks after another. Watching the fishermen at sunset beyond the first cove is magical. Ideally I’d recommend going with another person as there were some scary dogs when I went alone and an expat told me never to be there at dark. The long stretch between Otres I and Otres II is also a nice walk, just don’t do it after dark, I heard several reports of robberies and worse.

 

Watch the Sunrise and Sunset

Otres has the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen in my entire life. Not catching it every single day is sacrilegious. The sun rises behind the beach, but it’s pretty darn beautiful too.

 

Swim with plankton

Otres beach and the neighboring island are blessed with phosphorescent plankton. Go for a night swim to see the sea light up like stars, just be sure to keep all of your belongings inside and if you’re going anywhere beyond the main, busy stretch make sure to go with a group for safety.

 

 

 


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Comments

  1. I love your blog. It makes me dream of traveling every time I read it :)
    The photos are beautiful!

    • Camille Willemain Says: June 5, 2014 at 4:09 pm

      Thank you!! Oh my goodness you have amazing recipes on your blog my dear! I will definitely be making them now that I have kitchen access :)

  2. I wanted to go to Otres before, but now it’s a need. As usual, beautiful pictures/writing/emotions. A delight to read.

  3. Wonderful! I think I might switch to Otres 2 next time I’m in Sihanoukville! 😀

  4. […] Otres Beach […]

  5. Lovely blog. Like you, it seems, I love it here partly because of the honesty of Sihanoukville. The bad is as exposed as the good. Too many places keep their dirty laundry hidden. I’m thinking of specifically of Bali. I loved it there until I stayed a few months and got to know what goes on just beneath the surface.

  6. Oh wow, Otres looks amazing. I almost made it there this summer, but had a change of plans. Both the sunrise and sunset photos are lovely!

    • Camille Willemain Says: September 22, 2014 at 3:47 pm

      Thank you Miriam! It is wonderful there, definitely check it out next time :) Such an awesome little community down on Otres II.

  7. […] Except to negate that silver lining the sun rising also meant an unbearable hike in temperature. Beautiful, though. Photo from This American Girl. […]

  8. I stayed at Castaways, partly on the basis of your sweet blog post. It was a perfect location and the beach experience was sublime. I must say the hospitality experience was bumpy. Bathrooms were broken, no attempts to repair, requests for service ignored, which starts as charming but becomes tedious after 3 weeks. Feral dogs fighting at night and crying kids at 6am also can also be charming, then, less so. But the low cost, hammock and bungalow vibe worked for me. You developed a nice personal relationship with Oux and family which was an essential part of your experience.

    On my first night was awakened by loud music, and followed it into the jungle at 2am, and found the Kerfuffle. Did you ever go? Made several lasting friendships there. Also, loved Otres Market and befriended Ruby and Max et al.

    I am thinking of leasing some property in Otres ‘Village,’ a 5-10 walk from the beach. Live there, do some workshops, offer yoga, massage, khmer meals, let some backpackers stay free, invite old and new friends. You seemed pretty high on Otres. What is your view on a westerner living there and on the village/beach expat scene?

    • Camille Willemain Says: May 29, 2015 at 2:15 pm

      Thanks so much for sharing the deets of your experience!! I feel you, it’s definitely not “5 star” but for me I loved the family connection, like you said :) I never even heard of Kerfuffle! I wanted to go to the Otres Market, but by the time I got there it had stopped running because of the low season, I’ll definitely check it out next time. I think what you want to create is a great idea, and there definitely is a need for it in Cambodia in general. For me personally, I wouldn’t want to live there because I find the expat scene to be pretty drug and alcohol saturated. That said, perhaps you could create something that would draw a different crowd.

      • Good to hear back. You are VERY diligent about responding to posts on your blog. You are doing fine, important work. Yeah, I’m 59, and did see my share of drinking and drug taking but that wide open beach offers space to be free of that. Thus my interest in a managed environment that flushes that stuff out.

        Yeah, the kerfuffle is down in rainy season. And, yes, dancing to trance music in the jungle at 4am likely has a chemical contribution somewhere in the mix. But is all seemed fairly happy and harmless. I

        think Ouk’s family vibe works more consistently — you clearly became a favorite and I enjoyed the family as well — if he applies more diligent attention to customer service, something other venues get as they seek to grow. His genius was doing it early, using family as staff and, yeah, that spot is perfect.

  9. Autumn Edelson Says: June 17, 2015 at 5:58 pm

    Hello!
    These pictures are so beautiful (as are all the pictures you post with your blogs). Have you ever considered creating a page on your website with all your pictures organized by country/region? I would love to see all your pictures in addition to your amazing posts with pictures included! Just an idea :)

  10. Eurodrifter Says: February 25, 2016 at 11:17 pm

    Great pics and write up. Just got back from staying between Otres 1 and 2, I’m sad to say that the govt here stepped up and is tearing down all buildings/bars by mid March! They are clearing the beaches for future hotels/resorts. Sad that it is all going away, but happy I was able to enjoy this little place of paradise.

  11. officialtravelnews Says: May 17, 2016 at 5:15 am

    What about the trash everywhere ? You really don’t feel like staying in a dump ?