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Tonsai Bay Makes Me Never Want to Grow Up

Tonsai Bay

 

In a faraway place

 

Tonsai Bay

 

where limestone crags grow

from a glowing sheet of glass

 

Tonsai Bay

 

where paths weave from the jungle

all leading to the beach

 

Tonsai Bay

 

where tides recede for miles

unveiling the rocky life beneath

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found Neverland.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found the pirates who guard the sea

flashing their gold teeth as I boarded reluctantly.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found the fairies spreading their magical dust

spinning balls of fire at the parties after dusk.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found the mermaids swimming in the bay

laying lazily in tide pools soaking up sun all day.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found the beasts in the trees up high

stealing bananas and wallets from tourists passing by.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found the natives frying noodles and grilling meat

or dancing with flames on the beach.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

Everywhere I looked I found the lost boys

dangling from the cliffs, their natural jungle toys.

 

Tonsai Bay

 

Testing my balance on the slack line

pushing my endurance on a rocky climb

 

Tonsai Bay

 

mingling with strangers in reggae bars

dancing around fire twirlers under the stars

 

Tonsai Bay

 

sleeping in a wooden hut up a hundred stone stairs

forgetting for the first time in a long time all my worries and my cares

 

Tonsai Bay

 

I found myself believing

that if I stayed on Tonsai Bay forever

 

Tonsai Bay

 

perhaps I might also

never never

grow up.

 

 

How to Get to Tonsai Bay

 

From Ao Nang

Boats leave when full from Ao Nang directly to Tonsai Bay and cost about $5.

 

From Krabi Town

Boats leave when full from the harbor and cost about $3. They drop passengers on the east side of Railay so you will need to walk through the town to Railay West to either catch a boat or walk to Tonsai.

 

From Railay 

Boats leave Railay for Tonsai when they have a minimum of four passengers and the whole journey takes less than ten minutes. You can also walk over from Railay during low tide, take a steep climb over the cliff during high tide, or walk the jungle path that arrives in the back end of town, which takes about an hour.

 

 

Where to Sleep in Tonsai Bay

 

Few hotels have websites or online bookings so your best bet is to show up and ask around for the best price. Most bungalows cost about 600 baht for two people ($20) and the cheapest options are around 400 baht ($12). Bear in mind that Tonsai Bay has no official “resorts” and most accommodations are simple wooden bungalows or fan rooms. Those looking for more luxury and comfort will find it next door at Railay.

 

 

Where to Eat in Tonsai Bay

 

Tonsai Bay is hardly a culinary mecca, but you can get some decent and relatively healthy meals in this teeny town.

 

Mama’s Chicken

You’ll find your street food here. Curries, fried rice, phad thai, som tum, spring rolls, and mango sticky rice. The cheapest and most authentic Thai. Why pay double at a restaurant?

 

Green Valley Resort

Every morning they have a huge all you can eat buffet breakfast for 150 baht ($5) that includes fruit, yogurt, muesli, pancakes, eggs, waffles, toast, cereal, juice, tea, and pastries. Eat your heart out. At night they have the best deal anywhere with a salad bar for only 50 baht (1.60$) that you can pile your plate as high as possible with. They also have grilled fish for $5.

 

Pyramid Bar

The cafe across from the rock climbing outfit Basecamp Tonsai has a decent breakfast selection and good wifi. Most places on the island lack wifi or charge you to use it. I recommend getting one of the tropical fruit bowls with goji berries and cacao.

 

 

What to Do in Tonsai Bay

 

 

Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is the main draw for visitors and most come equipped with their own gear and explore the rocks on their own. Basecamp Tonsai and The Rock Shop rent gear, offer guided climbs, and give lessons to beginners.

 

Kayaking

Kayaks are available for rent along the beach and are a great way to explore Railay’s beaches and the famous Phra Nang Beach which has a penis shrine believed to bring fertility. On the way to Phra Nang Beach there is a landlocked saltwater lagoon surrounded by cliffs worth exploring, and on the far end of Phra Nang Beach is a cave with a bamboo ladder that leads to gorgeous views.

 

Slack Lining

Several bars have slack lines and testing your balance is a great way to meet other travelers.

 

Bar Hopping

Tonsai Bay has a chill but fun nightlife scene with live music and fire dance performances. Start at the Freedom Bar for sunset that gradually make your way down the beach stopping at Chill Out and Viking or anywhere else that beckons you with good music and cool people.

 

 


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Comments

  1. LillyBug Says: March 4, 2014 at 6:23 pm

    Don’t know what’s best . . the poetry, the photos or the destination. Beautiful . .

  2. Loved reading your article. Stunning photography :)

  3. beautiful. wish I had that luxury….

  4. Kelly Rogers Says: April 21, 2014 at 11:51 pm

    I didn’t know it was a poem I was reading until I was already half way. I was distracted by the photos. This is an awesome article.

  5. […] I persevered with my freelance work in Tonsai Bay […]

  6. Binjal Shah Says: May 5, 2017 at 1:18 pm

    I left a piece of my heart back at Tonsai. Been trying to explain to my friends what this place did to me – now, I can just send them this article :-)