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Panama City is Wabi Sabi

Panama City Casco Viejo

 

Years ago a designer friend of mine loaned me the book Wabi Sabi.

 

Panama City Casco Viejo

 

I read it on a trip to Mexico where I was severely sunburned the first day, hid from the rain the next four days, and fought with my (now ex) boyfriend nearly every day.

 

You would be correct in calling the trip imperfect.

 

Panama City Casco Viejo

 

For those who are unfamiliar with the small philosophical text called Wabi Sabi, it reads “for artists, designers, poets, and philosophers” and attempts to define the Japanese aesthetic.

 

panama city skyline

 

This philosophy is derived from Buddhist teachings and focuses on impermanence, suffering, and emptiness.

It is filled with asymmetry and irregularity.

It is the counterbalance to the ideals of perfectionism and beauty in the Western World.

 

Panama City Casco Viejo

 

As a Western reared perfectionist borderline OCD Hollywood Regency loving twenty something
the words were lost on me.

 

I pondered them in the likeness of a hipster attempting to embrace originality.

Without authenticity.

 

Panama City Casco Viejo

 

And it wasn’t until years later

after living in homes that lacked boundaries with nature and frequently invited uncivilized life forms inside

 

Panama City skyline

 

in Panama City

a place which fully embodies impermanence, suffering, and emptiness, juxtaposed against a perfectly modern Western skyline

that I began to truly understand and embrace wabi sabi.

 

panama city casco viejo

 

I began to see

that nothing lasts

that nothing is finished

that nothing is perfect.

 

panama city casco viejo

 

I found

beauty in the broken

beauty in the damaged

and felt perfectly imperfect.

 

panama city casco viejo

 

Hugging buildings on narrow sidewalks under the eave’s protection from the rain.

Devouring ceviche brimming out of Styrofoam cups at the local wharf.

 

panama city casco viejo

 

Laughing while a construction worker hosed dog doo off of my open toed shoe.

Practicing yoga in the wet grass while curious local children stopped, stared, then joined in.

 

panama city casco viejo

 

Eating outdated yet delicious cuisine surrounded by an even more outdated décor.

 

panama city waterfront

 

Embracing wabi sabi

and its consistent inconsistency

I began my next adventure

 

casco viejo panama city

 

knowing that my time in Costa Rica

was not

and never would be

complete.

 

panama city casco viejo

My Guide to the Casco Viejo in Panama City, Panama

 

Where exactly did I find wabi sabi? Was it among the tall towers in the commercial skyline surrounded by North American conglomerate chains? No, it was in the small charming Casco Viejo neighborhood. This historical area was built in the late 1800s but over the years became unfashionable as people headed for the lights of the big city across the water. Following this abandonment it began to badly deteriorate which you can now see in the form of many vacant dilapidated buildings covered in foliate and layers of weathered patina. It is considered a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and is undergoing large renovations. I find it absolutely beautiful in its wreckage.

 

casco viejo panama city

 

Sleep

 

Luna’s Castle

$13 for a dorm bed, $30 for a private 

At times it may feel big and impersonal, and some of the rooms lack windows entirely, but the building is absolutely stunning and the location can’t be beat. A standard pancake and banana breakfast is included in the rate and served at a big communal table surrounded by shelves of books. The “castle” has plenty of other common areas with comfy modern leather couches, computers, guitars, and balconies with views of the city. The club downstairs hosts a fun party on Friday and Saturday nights which hostel guests can enter for free.

 

Magnolia Inn

$15 for a dorm bed, $80 for a private

For budget travelers looking for a quiet, more intimate environment, the Magnolia Inn is a great option. Dorm and private rooms have AC, deluxe mattresses, and private balconies with views of the city.

 

Tantalo Hotel

$135-$175 for a room for two

This small boutique hotel is the perfect place for those seeking luxury. Each room is individually and artfully decorated and are outfitted with a flat screen tv, kitchenette, and many have views of the city. The rate includes a gourmet breakfast, bicycle rentals to explore the city, wifi, valet parking, cell phone use, and even free yoga classes on their rooftop deck. Laundry and dry cleaning is available for a fee. The downstairs restaurant serves lunch and dinner and the rooftop bar has incredible views of the old town and city.

 

panama city ceviche

 

Eat

 

Super Gourmet

$5 for breakfast, $5-10 for lunch

Hang out with the local expats at Super Gourmet. Come here for excellent deli sandwiches, salads, and espresso. You can also pick up gourmet grocery items here including local organic chocolate. They also sell all natural beauty products, great for trips to San Blas where you will likely be bathing in the sea. Besides who wants to use chemicals on their body ever?

 

Mercado de Mariscos

$1-5  for big cups of ceviche, $8 for a fish plate

Head to the Mercado de Mariscos for a real Panamanian experience. Do not miss it!! Counters offer heaping cups of fresh ceviche, just choose your fish! The price is shockingly low and the variety is incredible. Warning: locals may stare as you will likely be the only gringo. Soak it up. Upstairs is the Mercado de Mariscos restaurant which serves big plates of fresh fish and fried patacones.

 

Las Clementinas

$12-30 for dinner entrees

Enjoy upscale fusion Panamanian cuisine inside this lovely bistro restaurant. Delicacies include steak with chimichurri and Caribbean seafood risotto. Or come in for their prix fixe brunch with a selection of omelets, empanadas, risottos, and parfaits for $24.

 

Puerta la Tierra

$15-30 for entrees, $10 appetizers

An expat favorite, Puerta la Tierra has nice outdoor seating in the park which is great for people watching and a chic interior. You can’t go wrong with their delicious tuna tar tar and killer steak nachos. The salads are also excellent.

 

panama city skyline

 

Do

 

Wander and marvel at the beautiful architecture

It’s unique and beautiful. Soak it up.

 

Shop at the outdoor markets along the waterfront

I bought a pair of hand hammered brass earrings made by a Peruvian man that friends have begged to trade for. Not a chance.

 

Take Yoga on the rooftop at Tantalo

Sol Yoga offers community classes on the roof at Tantalo hotel for stunning views. Join them for some sunset Vinyasa or let loose and do some yoga dance.

 

Bar hop

The Casco Viejo has great nightlife and it gets started around 4 with drink specials all over town. Get started at a corner cafe with glasses of bubbles on special.

 

Tour the Panama Canal

If you’ve made it all the way to Panama City, you should probably see the world wonder that is the Panama Canal, right? Why not take a tour en route to Taboga Island for such beach time? Two birds one stone. The Balboa Yacht Club takes passengers on a 30 minute ride for $6 to Taboga Island through the Panama Canal. Spend the day swimming in the water and eating at the fish shacks before returning on the Calypso Queen Ferry, aka the slow boat.

 

Side Trip to San Blas

If you have time, fit in a side trip to one the most incredible places I have ever been.

 

For more tips, the New York Times did a great feature called 36 Hours in Panama City.

 


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Comments

  1. Love this post! And lovely photos as usual, but the one with the wires stretched across the two buildings with skyscrapers in the background is stunning!

  2. Your pictures are beautiful, as always! I’m really enjoying your recommendations, thank you!!

  3. Very beautiful and provocative post.

  4. joanne rivera Says: July 16, 2013 at 10:45 am

    Once we discovered brokenness in ourselves and accept it in others….life takes on new meaning…glad you’re delving the depths….
    I am still recuperating in Granada, Nicaragua from over 8 days with dengue fever..
    J

    • Joanne so sorry to hear you’re sick AGAIN! Dengue has been going around here in PV too. It’s time to start really ramping up your probiotic intake. Kombucha, kefir, and fermented veg daily. Sending you positive vibrations!!

  5. Before moving back to CR I lived in Panama for a little over 2 years. I absolutely loved it. It is a country of extremes and very culturally diverse. I loved going to the grocery store to see 6 different cultures of people all standing in the same line (Indian, Kuna, Anglo, afro-caribbean, Hispanic, jewish, Asian). Obviously it is FAR less expensive to live there as opposed to Cost Rica as well. The nightlife? The best.

    • This American Girl Says: October 10, 2013 at 6:42 pm

      Hi Dan, thanks for your insights! Everyone always says that Panama is so much cheaper, but I never experienced it! Perhaps because I stayed in Bocas and Panama City?? Where are the cheap places in Panama, tell us please? :)